Did you know about chestnuts?
Chestnuts have been harvested for centuries as a valuable source of protein, in bygone times particularly for those who could not afford meat. With their rich, nutty flavor, they continued to be popular after other nutritional foods became more accessible, and we all know of roasted chestnuts. When Crusaders brought sugar back on their return, in Northern Italy and the South of France, rich chestnut growing regions, the idea of turning them into a candy was conceived. Today roasted chestnuts are a common offering in many European countries, along with gelato flavored with chestnuts, desserts with ground chestnuts, and the marron glacé.
The differences between a chestnut, châtaigne as the French call it and a marron are in the fruit
structure, the size and the taste. After hundreds of years of cultivating, certain varieties of chestnut became sweeter, the true marrons, which, also because of a lower yield, are three to four times more expensive than the châtaigne.
What is Marrons Glacés?
Marrons glacés are chestnuts which peeled and blanched to remove their fibrous membranes and then soaked in a sugar syrup. Periodic heating encourages the absorption of the syrup and when all of the syrup has evaporated, or been absorbed, the chestnuts are dried. The finished product is a chestnut with an outer coating of sugar and a rich, candied interior. A marron glacé can be a delicious food as-is, and these candied chestnuts are also used as garnishes on desserts, especially during the holidays. They are extremely popular in France, a nation of avid chestnut eaters and they are also in much demand around the world, a pleasure every day, anytime. A true marron glacé takes several days to cook from start to finish, making it an expensive delicacy.
Some history…
The towns of Lyon in France and Cuneo in Italy dispute the claim for the addition of the special icing and glazing that makes the true marron glacé, which probably first appeared in the 16th century. In 1667, François Pierre La Varenne, chef de cuisine to the Marquis of Uxelles, (near Lyon, in a chestnut producing region) a foremost figure of the Nouvelle Cuisine movement of the time, published his bestseller book ‘Le Parfait Confiturier’. In it he describes “la façon de faire marron pour tirer au sec” - the way to glaze a chestnut, literally to pull it candied from the syrup. The delicacy was a particular favorite of Louis XIV.
How to make marrons glaces? The secret recipe.
Ingredients:
1 kilo chestnuts, shell and membrane removed
1 kilo sugar
650 ml. water (+-2-1/2 US cups)
1 vanilla bean
Preparation:
1. Remove the shell from the chestnuts by using a sharp paring knife, cut a small 'X' on the flat side of a chestnut or just make a slash.
2. After you have removed the shells you must remove the membrane. Using a large pan, cover chestnuts with water, bring to the boil and cook 8 minutes or so. Drain and discard the water. Rub between a kitchen cloth until the skins come off.
3. Using again a large pan, cook the sugar, water and the vanilla bean over low heat, stirring all the while until the sugar dissolves. Allow to gently simmer 5 minutes, then add the chestnuts. Bring to the boil and cook 10 minutes. Remove from heat and discard the vanilla bean.
4. Now, cover and allow steeping over night or at least 12 hours. Bring again to the boil and cook 1 minute more. Again allow to stand this time for 24 hours. Repeat again until all the syrup has been absorbed (it should not take more than 3-4 times). Cooking over the time may inhibit the crystallization process - which is dependent on the above steps.
5. Drying process: preheat oven to 65°C, cover an oven rack or baking rack with parchment paper (or waxed). Distribute the crystallized chestnuts evenly and allow to dry out with the oven door propped open a few centimeters for 2 hours or until they are firm.
6. Cool completely. Store in a container with parchment or waxed paper between the layers and they will keep about 2 weeks...
After all this work, you can see why a single marron glacé can fetch a high price at a Parisian candy shop!
