Discovering truffles
Truffles are known since the Antiquity. In Egypt, they were cooked wrapped in parchment. In Europe, Greeks and Romans used it as aphrodisiacs and medicines for its anti-bacterial compounds and healing qualities. It is commonly said that truffle is a subterranean fungus. But it is more exactly the fruit of the mycelium, that is the mass of branched and tubular filaments of a fungus.
The good development of a truffle requires the association of 3 elements: a calcareous earth, oaks, chestnuts, or hazels trees as truffles grow close to tree roots, and an appropriate climate. As they grow to 30 cm below the surface, there are three ways to find them in the woods: pigs, who just naturally love it; dogs, that have to be trained; and bunches of flies that are drugged by the smell and fly above the ground. Because of their rarity, truffles are among the most expensive of the world’s natural foods. A good quality truffle must be consistent, compact, scented.
Truffles can be harvested all year long but it depends on the different species. There are two main categories: black and white truffles.
Black truffles are the most widespread. They are round with warty surfaces, irregular in shape and vary from the size of walnut to that of a man’s fist. One of the highly valued is the Tuber Melanosporum -commonly called black truffle of Périgord or black diamond-: the best according to experts. It has black flesh streaked with whitish veins. This truffle matures between December and March. It has a black wrinkled skin covered with tiny warts, a black and purple pulp and fine white veins through it.
White truffles are also highly prized among connoisseurs of fine foods. They have great gastronomic qualities, and are found from October to December. Their skin is pale yellow and they have a nut-brown pulp with light colored veins.
In France, the most valuable truffle fields are in the South, in the regions of the Lot, Dordogne, Bourgogne, Vaucluse, Gard, etc. Truffles markets were a popular tradition in France. But of the 50 known marketplaces before the WW1, only about ten are still active today. Most of them are held as part of a larger fair. The sellers display the truffles in small baskets and brokers come and examine the jewels. Then the bargaining begins.
However, with the mechanization, host trees’ superficial roots are destroyed and with the rural exodus, trees that produced truffles during the booming period of truffle have not been replanted. Consequently, hunting truffles today is becoming more and more difficult as they tend to disappear.
Cooking truffles
Truffles’ perfume is very rich. A simple contact with the truffle and its precious flavor is released. It can be eaten cooked or raw, in thin layers, in slices, in cubes, or in juice. It accompanies omelet, foie gras, cream and garlic sauces, vinaigrettes, pastas, risottos, meats: lamb, veal, pork, ox, etc.