French foie gras, a sublime art de vivre
Next time you’re enjoying Franck Bruwier’s foie gras poché et roti aux cèpes et chataignes avec sa marmalade d’oranges at Club Shanghai – say that 10 times fast! – remember to give thanks to the ancient people of the Nile. Indeed, the Egyptians were the first to discover what is today known as foie gras.

Around 2500 BC, they noticed that goose liver was bigger, paler and much tastier during the species’ migration period than in the rest of the year. They eventually realized that this was the result of geese overeating before migration to stock energy for the long, arduous journeys. The Egyptians then decided to reproduce the natural phenomenon all year round and began to feed geese copious amounts of figs. Later, in the 5th century, geese were replaced with ducks and figs with corn.

For centuries, foie gras has inspired passionate gourmands. From the Hebrews to the Romans, many have contributed to the art of foie gras. Between the 13th and the 17th centuries, however, the popularity of foie gras grew significantly as the French perfected both animal feeding techniques and various methods for preparing foie gras: from torchon style, where the product is wrapped in towels and cooked in spicy stock to develop different flavours; to in a terrine or perhaps a glass jar for smooth, melt-in-the-mouth foie gras; to even mousse form for lighter tastes and textures. Over the years, the French passion for the food has led its chefs to create exquisite foie gras dishes that have won the nation global renown.

Producing foie gras
In France, foie gras is derived from Mulard ducklings. They arrive in quarantine sites at just one or two days old, where they are then confined for 28 days. After this, the ducklings spend 12 weeks on farms before being transferred to force-feeding units. There, they are given a special diet for 13 days: corn, hot water and some minerals, and absolutely no antibiotics, hormones, fat or animal meal. Although some decry the practice of force-feeding, others argue that it is simply the simulation of a natural phenomenon. And, for all the modernization and automation in the food sector today, the making of foie gras still depends heavily on traditional methods and hands-on labour, which explains the high price.

Choosing foie gras
When selecting foie gras, the first question is duck or goose? While both are delicious, consider the differences: duck liver, which is more common in Europe, is firmer in texture and stronger in taste. Goose liver, on the other hand, is lighter in colour, more tender and more subtle in taste. The latter is generally preferred in Asian countries.

The quality of foie gras – whether duck or goose – can also vary widely. Foie gras that bears the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) logo indicates a product that abides by strict guidelines regarding breeding, force-feeding and production. This classification, similar to the AOC for cheeses or wine, suggests better quality raw materials, adherence to rigid process, and thus a superior finished product.

Enjoying foie gras
Foie gras is best enjoyed at the start of a meal when taste buds are most receptive. Eat it on a slice of freshly baked or lightly toasted country bread, or with dried fruit compote, fresh figs or white grapes. This combination of sweet and savoury flavours is irresistible. Sweet, syrupy wines such as Sauternes or the finest reds from Medoc or Cahors also pair extremely well with this delicacy – together, they join to give taste buds an exquisite sensation.