Discovering
truffles
Truffles are known since the Antiquity. In Egypt, they were
cooked wrapped in parchment. In Europe, Greeks and Romans used
it as aphrodisiacs and medicines for its anti-bacterial compounds
and healing qualities. It is commonly said that truffle is a
subterranean fungus. But it is more exactly the fruit of the
mycelium, that is the mass of branched and tubular filaments
of a fungus.
The good development of a truffle requires the association of
3 elements: a calcareous earth, oaks, chestnuts, or hazels trees
as truffles grow close to tree roots, and an appropriate climate.
As they grow to 30 cm below the surface, there are three ways
to find them in the woods: pigs, who just naturally love it;
dogs, that have to be trained; and bunches of flies that are
drugged by the smell and fly above the ground. Because of their
rarity, truffles are among the most expensive of the world’s
natural foods. A good quality truffle must be consistent, compact,
scented.
Truffles can be harvested all year long but it depends on the
different species. There are two main categories: black and
white truffles.
Black truffles are the most widespread. They
are round with warty surfaces, irregular in shape and vary from
the size of walnut to that of a man’s fist. One of the highly
valued is the Tuber Melanosporum -commonly called black truffle
of Périgord or black diamond-: the best according to experts.
It has black flesh streaked with whitish veins. This truffle
matures between December and March. It has a black wrinkled
skin covered with tiny warts, a black and purple pulp and fine
white veins through it.
White truffles are also highly prized among
connoisseurs of fine foods. They have great gastronomic qualities,
and are found from October to December. Their skin is pale yellow
and they have a nut-brown pulp with light colored veins.
In France, the most valuable truffle fields are in the South,
in the regions of the Lot, Dordogne, Bourgogne, Vaucluse, Gard,
etc. Truffles markets were a popular tradition in France. But
of the 50 known marketplaces before the WW1, only about ten
are still active today. Most of them are held as part of a larger
fair. The sellers display the truffles in small baskets and
brokers come and examine the jewels. Then the bargaining begins.
However, with the mechanization, host trees’ superficial roots
are destroyed and with the rural exodus, trees that produced
truffles during the booming period of truffle have not been
replanted. Consequently, hunting truffles today is becoming
more and more difficult as they tend to disappear.
Cooking truffles
Truffles’ perfume is very rich. A simple contact with the truffle
and its precious flavor is released. It can be eaten cooked
or raw, in thin layers, in slices, in cubes, or in juice. It
accompanies omelet, foie gras, cream and garlic sauces, vinaigrettes,
pastas, risottos, meats: lamb, veal, pork, ox, etc.